We are excited to partner with Pergamino Coffee Exporters for this magnificant lot from one of the most unique regions in Colombia. Information shared below is courtesy of Pergamino:
Paramo Aponte - Nariño - community lot
Average Altitude: 2100
Varieties: Caturra and Colombia
Number of Producers: 20
Processing: Washed-processed, dried in beds under plastic or in patios for 15-25 days.
Aponte is a small village and indigenous reserve located in the municipality of Tablón de Gómez, in the northwest of Nariño. To get there, you must first endure a nerve-wracking landing at the Pasto airport or embark on a more than 24-hour road trip from Medellín. From Pasto, it’s a 2-hour drive to Buesaco, the nearest major town, and from there, another 2-3 hours on an unpaved road that leads into the magical world of the Juanambu Canyon.
Aponte, Nariño, holds great historical significance as it was considered the northern tip of the Inca Empire. Colonized by the great chieftain Carlos Tamabioy, the story goes that he left Peru with 16 children in the mid-15th century, traveling through Ecuador and reaching the south of Colombia, creating Inga reservations—a community belonging to the Inca Empire. The furthest point he reached was what we now know as Aponte, then called Janguana, where he established his final village and passed away at the age of 106.
This origin story of Aponte is a remarkable myth, and to this day, ancestral traditions and a hierarchical structure are preserved. A “Taita Mayor,” or indigenous leader, governs the reserve independently of many Colombian governmental institutions. Their community is known as the Ingas, and their primary crop is coffee.
We first arrived in Aponte in 2017 after working in the northern region of Nariño for some time. We discovered it through samples of honey-processed coffee that arrived at our lab. This process, which we’ll describe in detail later, is uncommon in Colombia, where coffee is traditionally fully washed after pulping and before drying. When we started receiving samples of coffee processed this way representing relatively large lots—we decided to visit the village and see what was happening. The journey is long, along a narrow, unpaved road (like most in Nariño), and we usually take the “linea,” an old Hilux truck modified to carry passengers. Entering the village feels like stepping into another world; the access road is surrounded by collapsed houses with giant cracks and broken roofs.
We later learned that the more modern part of the village was built on a geological fault that began to show itself about 10-15 years ago, splitting the village in half and toppling half the houses. The church, still a symbol of hope, has been gradually collapsing—a process we’ve witnessed during our visits year after year. Today, only its facade remains, and its central nave has been replaced by a tent. It’s worth noting that the Inga community was converted to Catholicism by Spanish conquistadors.
Another thing we immediately noticed was the traditional clothing (cusma for men and pacha for women) worn by many of its inhabitants, a reminder that Aponte is an indigenous reserve.
Most of the institutions governing the reserve operate independently of Colombian law. For example, excessive alcohol consumption and adultery are prohibited, and failing to follow these rules leads to time in the “reflection center.” More serious offenses, such as theft, result in offenders being placed in the stocks, hung by their feet.
Another important aspect is that there is no private land ownership, and all farms are theoretically collectively owned, although the produce from each plot belongs to the person who works it. To work here, you need the community’s approval and must go through someone in the village authorized by the Taita to commercialize coffee.
In recent years, however, some producers have started producing washed coffees. During the harvest, they often run out of space, and the washed process requires much less management compared to the honey process. The vereda of El Páramo, located in the highest areas of Aponte, plays a crucial role in this shift. Thanks to its extreme altitude, cold climate, and prolonged fermentations accompanied by low temperatures, producers can achieve exceptional cup profiles with the washed process. These coffees stand out for their clean, bright profiles with sweet notes, competing with the highest international
standards.
El Páramo is also known for its rich biodiversity and close connection to the Inga culture. Its landscape, composed of vast páramos and streams, not only enhances the quality of the coffee but also stands as a testament to the balance between tradition and modernity that defines this community.
