Coffee Producer Profile: Delfino Quintero
Origin and Farm Information
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Country: Mexico
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Region: Oaxaca
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Province: Oaxaca
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District: Cañada
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Community: San Pedro Sochiapam
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Altitude: 1450 meters
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Farm Area: 5 hectares
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Variety: Typica, Bourbon, Caturra
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Process: Washed
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Fermentation: 24 hours in wood tanks
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Drying: 5-8 days on patios
A Legacy of Coffee Farming
Delfino Quintero's journey in coffee production began at the age of 15, working under his father. Five years later, he established his own farm, Llano Largo (Spanish for "Large Hill"). With 11 children, Delfino has sustained his family entirely from the income generated by his coffee farm.
To reach Llano Largo, one must undertake an almost 50-minute uphill walk from the center of the community. Delfino relies on a mule to transport his coffee. All harvesting is a family and community affair, and Delfino communicates in his native language, Chinanteco.
Delfino manages his entire coffee processing at his home. He ferments the coffee in wooden tanks for 24 hours and then dries it for 5-8 days on the roof of his house. On his farm, he maintains a row spacing of 2 meters and a seedling spacing of 1.5 meters. He also uses a special plant to separate rows and keep the coffee trees apart.
For shade, Delfino utilizes native trees like ice cream bean trees and avocado trees. These trees not only provide shade for the coffee plants but also offer a range of benefits, including food, medicine, and improved soil health through nitrogen fixation and water retention.
The Sochiapam Community
The municipality of Sochiapam is a major coffee-growing area in Oaxaca. Getting there from the city of Oaxaca involves a six-hour drive on a paved road, which ends in the community center. From there, it's another hour's uphill walk to the farms, as most are located at higher elevations.
Sochiapam is heavily wooded with abundant wildlife. It also contains a protected natural reserve where all commercial activities are prohibited. Local producers are committed to preserving this area. Most farms are small, typically 1-2 hectares, with some reaching up to 5 hectares. Producers here speak Chinanteco and Spanish.
A unique characteristic of Sochiapam is its diverse population of producers of all ages. Unlike many surrounding areas, outward migration is not as heavy due to the community's solid infrastructure, including hospitals, schools, and stores. This makes it possible for younger residents to find everything they need locally, reducing the need to seek opportunities elsewhere.
A Shift to Quality
For many years, Sochiapam was known for producing large volumes of coffee rather than focusing on quality. Many producers lacked knowledge of the best practices needed to achieve the area's potential.
In 2022, Red Fox received samples from Sochiapam and immediately recognized the potential for high-quality coffee. They began a long-term partnership by purchasing a modest 2,000 kg of parchment coffee and providing training on key areas like:
Initially, many producers were hesitant to adopt these changes, unsure if the effort would lead to a real increase in profits. However, some producers took the leap and saw great results, which served as a proof of concept for the entire community. The younger producers, with their curiosity and commitment to improvement, were particularly enthusiastic and led the charge in shifting from a quantity-first to a quality-first approach. Red Fox now works hand-in-hand with the producers during each harvest.
